Autumn in East Iceland
Old and New Coexisting Harmoniously
East Iceland is farther from Reykjavík
than any other part of the country, and to date has barely
been discovered by tourists. The small fishing villages in
the fjords of East Iceland possess a culture of their own,
a mixture of old traditional Icelandic lifestyles and today's
high technology, reflecting the ever innovative minds of Icelanders.
These new technologies, however, will not keep them from believing
in the fairies that live behind most every stone and hill
around these small villages.
Autumn is the most beautiful time of year in East Iceland,
and it's most bounteous. At this time of year the East Icelanders
are at their best, walking over hills and dales looking for
reindeer and ptarmigan, while hunters from far and wide furtively
lie in wait for their prey.
Others go into forests to collect berries and mushrooms, while
still others fill their pails with berries gathered along
mountainsides that flow into deep, calm fjords unlike any
other in Iceland. Berries are than made into jam, juice, delicious
cheese cake or other delicacies that Icelanders have become
so skilful at preparing.
Char, considered by many to be the best fish for cooking,
is caught throughout East Iceland. The best time for fishing
char is in late summer and early autumn. Fall is also the
slaughtering season, the time when lambs are rounded-up in
the mountains after having spent the summer grazing on healthy,
nutritious mountain grasses from the moment of birth. The
atmosphere at the fall round-up is uniquely Icelandic, and
is an experience that an ever-growing number of tourists have
come to enjoy.
Icelandic lamb meat has the taste of the wild,
and the reason for this is quite simple: it is in fact game.
Lamb is never given feed; rather it lives its short life entirely
on Iceland's pristine mountains. But Icelanders do not just
eat the meat. Families and friends gather together to use
parts of the lamb to make blood sausage and other delicacies,
sewing up the casings, before organizing a grand party to
enjoy a traditional meal of healthy foods that goes back for
centuries.
When the fall takes an end and the darkness
of winter moves in it brings with it fuel to inflame the East
Icelanders' love of a party. They annually celebrate days
of darkness in late November, as if warming up for the Christmas
season. During this time everyone joins together to revere
the darkness in one way or another, with restaurants and clubs
offering special events.
The local museum schedules a history evening
with emphasis on ghost stories and the opera studio has a
musical program devoted to darkness. People go on stargazing
evenings and listen to lectures about the heavens, walk together
carrying torches and go on ghost walks. And of course one
must not forget romance, which blossoms as never before.
When December arrives Icelandic Santa Clauses
come down from the mountains where they live and appear in
towns decorated with lights. One after another they come to
cause mischief and bring joy to the people, each in their
own way. Most have at sometime been frightened by Gluggagægi
(Window Peeper), while Kertasníkir (Candle-Beggar)
has always been the popular one. They all give the good children
presents in their shoes, even those who are staying in hotels
and guesthouses in East Iceland. The same is not true of the
Santa Clauses' parents - Grýlu and Leppalúða
- or the family pet jólaköttur (Christmas Cat),
none of whom is liked.
East Iceland welcomes all visitors, not least
of all in the autumn when the region glows with beauty. In
fact, the fall is the favorite of the East Icelanders, a time
of harvesting and joy, colors and darkness and the Northern
Lights.
A useful web-site:
www.east.is
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