The Great Outdoors
Exploring the extreme

IN GEOLOGICAL TERMS Iceland is very young — and the youthful exuberance of the land boldly greets travelers. The landscape is alive with the restless play of nature’s forces.

Action lovers in search of a real challenge will find plenty to their liking in Iceland. In some places where swirling glacial rivers race over rugged terrain on their way seaward, the scenery looks custombuilt for river rafting. White water rafting operators often offer a choice of routes with different levels of challenge — for newcomers who want to experience the basic thrill and more difficult rides for the really wild at heart. Among the best-loved rivers for rafting are the Hvita in the chasm down from Gullfoss in south Iceland, and Jokulsa in Skagafjordur in the north.

Kayaking is a sport not native to Iceland — although the country’s huge variety of natural waterways is ideally suited to it. And thrills await at many lakes and inshore bays where wave jets can be rented. Regular boating is another natural attraction in this country where man lives on the land — but lives from the sea. And sea fishing is especially popular because of the size of the catches to be had.

Glaciers cover one-ninth of Iceland’s land surface. Vatnajokull, at 3,300 square miles, is the largest glacier in Europe. The beauty of glaciers is eternal, but obstacles to enjoying it are largely a thing of the past. Glacier exploration is a unique experience, literally transporting travelers to a higher plane, where different values apply.

Tours are available where travelers make the ascent by bus and belt-driven vehicle, and then have time to explore on their own — by snowmobile. Safaris in modified jeeps are also available. But because of the risk of hidden cracks in the glaciers, travelers should only visit glaciers on organized tours with experienced operators and guides. After all, there’s all the freedom in the world — once you make it to the top.

The main starting point for exploring several of the many glaciers that form the Vatnajokull cap is the town of Hofn in southeast Iceland. Other glacier favorites are the mystical Snaefellsjokull on Snaefellsnes peninsula, Myrdalsjokull on the south coast, and Langjokull where west Iceland borders the highlands, the closest major glacier to the capital.

Go-it-alone types, too, can test themselves against nature. Cycling around Iceland is a genuine challenge, attracting a growing number of contenders. And really vigorous mountain hiking trails fan out in all directions from the outskirts of almost every community.